LD Ride Day 3: Man I Got Lucky September 5, 2009Posted by dakotabiker in Rides.
Tags: ABCs of Touring, biker, Harley, Inns, Maine, motorcycle, New Hampshire, Rides, Vermont
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Am sitting in a little ice cream shop, drinking coffee and waiting for my breakfast of eggs over easy, home fries, sausage, and toast. I really didn’t expect to be here, but had the fortune of coming across an outdoor art show this morning here in Ocean Park, Maine and decided to stop.
I got on the road in Biddeford less than an hour ago, a little after 8:00 and headed north on US-1. It is a strange familiarity, traveling on a distant extent of a highway that runs close to home. It seems odd that being 6 states removed, that I can give direction to my house in only four roads.
I stopped for gas and coffee in Saco, then got off US1 taking SR9 to the coast. At 120 feet to the shoreline (on the GPS anyway), the bike reached her closest proximity to the ocean in Camp Ellis. I continued on SR9 along the coast, happening upon the art show. Amidst the sea of cars, I parked in the one perfectly placed spot across from the park and found that most of the activity was here at the ice cream shop cum breakfast counter. My luck continued getting the only available table. I’m sitting by the window, watching folks walking to the art show, and getting hungrier with the scent of each hot breakfast making its way out of the kitchen destined for a neighboring table…. And here comes mine 🙂
Breakfast was good, but otherwise unexceptional. I sat people-watching as I ate, and noticed a family unpacking their SUV to walk to the beach a couple blocks away. Being by birth a land-locked South Dakotan, I’ve never really “caught on” to the “beach thing” and the thought that struck me this morning was how encumbered a trip to the beach seems to be. I watched as the family extricated folding chairs, umbrellas, coolers, towels, blankets, boogie boards, and backpacks out the back of the car like a magician pulling an endless buries of rabbits from his hat. They loaded themselves up to carry all this stuff down the street to go sit in the sand. Doesn’t seem “relaxing” to me. Even if the beach itself is really wonderfully soothing, at some point they’ll have to carry all that crap back to the car. I don’t get it.
After breakfast I strolled the art show in the park. A lot of littoral work: seascapes, shorelines, boats, and gulls… meh. Not that I was surprised by the ubiquitous maritime motif, but I was hoping for just a little more variety. There was one artist whose work drew my focus. He had beautiful photography printed to canvas giving a vague illusion of being a painting without trying to be. I suppose a true aficionado would likely consider it more of a gimmick than art, but I was quite transfixed by the surreal depth of one foggy forest piece for several minutes, and half thought to have it shipped home.
I continued up the coast along SR9 to find where a big touristing strip lay at Old Orchard Beach. I didn’t know it was there, else I might not have stopped earlier for breakfast. I was surprised at the number of people in the streets for the relatively early hour. There lots of hotels, shops, restaurants, and bars all within a close proximity. It looked like fun place to stay (for future reference, if I decide to give the beach decent try…).
As SR9 turned a sharp corner back toward US-1, I rode through what turns out to be my east-most extent at longitude W70° 20.6750′. Going back west on SR9, I stopped at a state wildlife management area with a prominent sign to pick up my Maine ABC point. I continued straight on to pick up a great ride on Broadturn Road to find my new “old friend” US-202, which I took NNE to pick up US-302 heading NW. As I glided through the sylvan countryside, I thought how much better the ride was shaping up, compared to yesterday afternoon. It was beautiful. The weather was sunny. It was warm to stand still, but pleasantly chilly on the bike in a Henley and vest.
Approaching the New Hampshire border in Fryeburg I stopped for coffee and an ABC point (for my “F” city) at the local post office. An elderly man watching me balance the magazine on the bike and line up on post office sign was convinced that I needed to be in the picture as well and offered to take it.
After crossing into New Hampshire, US-302 proved even more delightful than US-202. Lots of great sweeps and beautiful scenery. I hoped off US-302 to pick up SR112 via SR16 outside of Center Conway which took me through White Mountain National Forest. It was marked as a scenic route in my Harley atlas and most certainly did not disappoint. Following along the Swift River, the road had that intimacy with the landscape that I really enjoy. I stopped at a picnic area next to the river to try to capture the beauty of cascading water over the rocky riverbed. But it seems half of New Hampshire had the same notion to enjoy the area as well that day. I forewent the picture, holding onto memory of the views from the road as it wound through the forest. I really should consider a helmet cam one of these days.
The road headed upward climbing the side of Mount Kancamangus losing a bit of the intimacy but affording some great vistas. I stopped at a couple scenic overlooks and again at a pleasant picnic area at Beaver Pond a short distance from the Appalachian Trail. I was not the only rider taking advantage of the beautiful New England weather that day, seeing scores on the road and dozens at the stops. I continued on to meet back up with US-302 a couple miles ahead of the Vermont border.
After securing my Vermont point in Wells River, I continued toward Monteplier, traveling about 30-odd miles to Barre before a kindly old man in a pickup warned me to not get caught without a helmet! Whoa! I was so lucky. I actually passed two cops riding through Vermont with my hair blowing in the wind. One was directing traffic for a funeral (he did stare at me oddly,but didn’t motion for me to pull over or even point like I was missing something) and the other had someone else pulled over. I mistakenly thought I was helmet-free until New York; I guess I didn’t check Vermont.
I immediately crossed the right turn lane to get off the road into the parking lot of Mister Z’s Pizza, where I decided I was hungry and needed to catch up on taking blog notes anyway. I took a seat at a booth with a window overlooking the bike. I ordered a small Italian Stallion pizza (meat, meat, and more meat)and a beer, and looked out the window seeing the Barre police pass by… twice. Man, was I lucky.
I took my time working on finishing the delicious pizza, prioritizing the gooey, cheesy, greasy, meaty center and leaving behind only a pan of pizza-bones. Looking at my atlas, I was kind of thankful I had forgotten my passport. Canada would have been barely attainable at the significant expense of an enjoyable pace. I decided to start heading home. My only remaining trip objective was to ride SR100, which was supposed to be a great road with a lot of sweeps. I backtracked a little bit to take SR14 out of town heading south to pick up SR107 west to pick up SR100 between Stockbridge and Pittsfield. Pretty much the whole ride from Barre was great and SR100 did not disappoint. Great sweeps on beautiful countryside. I would very much like to make a return trip to finally see the famed foliage of fall.
I strove to make it to Londonderry, but given the angle of the setting sun and on-coming chill of riding in the cool valleys, I started looking for lodging at Weston. Catching a store clerk as he was closing up shop, I learned of a place, the Continental House Inn, a bit further up the road that was supposedly “the only place” around there. Given yesterday’s bad luck in not having a reservation at Bentley’s in Maine, I hurried on figuring they’d probably be full, and I’d have some more miles to go before I slept. The inn was pretty easy to spot, and I was heartened that in addition to its New England rustic charm that their sign proudly said “Motorcycle Friendly”. I pulled up to see about half a dozen motel rooms, that all looked occupied; the remainder of the building looked more to be a farm house. I parked the bike and walked up to what kind-of looked like an office, or at least less like a motel room. The two older folks in they yard didn’t so much as look up as I walked by in full leathers in search of the office. As I got closer, I realized I was not headed in the right direction when I heard a delicate voice behind me. “What are you looking for?” the voice asked. I turned to find an adorable little girl, maybe 6 years old with a very business like demeanor. I told here I was looking for the office. “That’s not the office,” she said matter-of-factly, “The office is over here,” pointing at the sign that said “Office”. I sheepishly followed her back past the elderly couple, who again didn’t move or glance. A retriever stood up giving a few of pro forma barks. The little girl explained that he was friendly and was just doing his part to protect the place. She then gave me very specific directions on getting through the two doors before me to find the innkeeper.
I was heartily welcomed by the owner, Jeff, and was introduced to his little assistant (his daughter, Alexis) and to his wife, Kim, who was busy baking something wonderful in the kitchen. I learned that the motel was booked for the night, but that they had rooms available in the inn. Wondering what the room rate rate of a charming Vermont Inn on a Labor Day holiday weekend would be, but concerned that my options were limited, I immediately said “I’ll take it!” and was delighted to find that the price was only 2/3 the rate I spent at the dump in Biddeford the night before, and included homemade breakfast. Jeff then gave me a a tour of the inn. I could not believe how lucky I was to have found the place; simply wonderful. There was a great common area with TV, couches, games, books, coffee, cookies, fireplace. It had such a familial feel, like staying in the home of kindly relatives in the country. I was shown to the dining room and the ice machine, and was led upstairs to a narrow hallway to my room. It was a tiny New England Farmhouse-appointed room with sloping ceilings matching the pitch of the gabled roof. The bed was a comfortable queen. I could not get over how wonderfully charming this place was. I was right across from the bathroom which was clean, dry, and well decorated — again giving the feeling of staying with relatives, only cleaner and without the feeling of imposition.
I pulled the Sturgis Pack off the bike and carried it up the creaky steps and down the very narrow, low-ceilinged hallway to my room. I espyied my silhouette in a mirror at the end of the hall: a shaggy ogre lumbering with my leather-clad girth inches of each wall. Settling into my room, I pulled out the cell phone to tweet my discovery of this wonderful inn, only to find no signal. I smiled, thinking how delightfully appropriate that was, and pulled out the laptop to find a strong wifi signal. Smiling again, at how much I loved this place, I settled in to work on the route and the blog for a little while before dinner. But soon I felt a bit peckish, and I headed down to the common room to ask Jeff about my restaurant options.
I was greeted by my first name, as though by family, reinforcing the sincere hospitality feel of the place. I learned that for dinner, my best option was back up the road a couple of miles in Weston at a small restaurant called the Bryant House – a part of the Vermont Country Store. As suggested by the name it was an historic 1827 residence. Like everything else in the area, the restaurant house was delightfully charming. I sat in the bar area and read the history chronicled in the menu… about the house, the furniture, and about the bar. For dinner, I opted to go light, figuring it would be heresy to leave New England without having a lobster roll (also realizing I probably should have had one in Maine; Doh). I caught up on my trip notes with a glass of Chardonnay waiting for my meal.
I had estimated the size my hunger perfectly, forewent any dessert, and rode back to the inn in the cold dark. I half-thought to sit for a while in the common area and watch Lawrence Welk, but elected to instead stay up in my room, comfortably snug in bed catching up on emails, tweets, and blogs for a little while before drifting off to sleep. I left the windows open, and enjoyed the cool Vermont night breeze. Man, I got lucky today.